RESEARCH PAGES IN SKETCHBOOK

Looking at British riot police uniform and military style fashion - (Alexander Wang X H&M)

'British riot police officers (2011)
Jil Sander AW 16
Raf Simons campaign
Maharishi AW 16
Nasir Mazhar AW 16
Craig Green AW 16
Alexander Wang X H&M'

Looking at typography in fashion, especially the Raf Simons AW collection and campaigns. Also high waisted style trousers from Margaret Howell.

RICHARD KILROY ILLUSTRATIONS

I really like Richard Kilroy's illustrative style; the photo-realistic combined with simple outlines, bold patches of colour contrasting the monochromatic majority and his use of negative space to draw the eyes of the viewer to the model or garments. His illustrations are incredibly realistic and effective, without losing any creative flare. Each individual illustration could stand on its own as a piece of fine art.

Taken from Kilroy's book; 'Menswear Illustration' ' "Kilroy illustrates his men in photorealistic style, using graphite, which renders them in the manner of statues. Increasingly he works directly with models, selecting them for the features that have always appealed to him: a strong nose, good hands,m a pronounced Adam's apple, piercing eyes and a beguiling stare. While they are men, they are still slim and young with a boyish quality. Kilroy's style plays with negative space, suggestion and simplicity. Photorealism is combined with fluid lines and colour is used sparingly and effectively. His work is also identifiable for its detailing of garments, particularly when it comes to interpreting the surface of leather".

RAF SIMONS FALL 2015 MENSWEAR

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(Source). 

POLICE FORCES AROUND THE WORLD

Afghan anti-riot policemen.

Afghan police officers.

Austrian police officers.

Austrian police officers.

Belgium special forces.

Belgium special forces.

Bosnian special police support unit.

British riot police.

US police department.

Indian rapid action force (RAF).

Indian police constable.

Italian carabinieri.

London police constables.

Malaysian public order police, the federal reserve unit.

Members of the UN security force.

Philippine national police bomb squad.

Philippine national police officer.

Philippine national police special weapons and tactics (SWAT).

Serbian gendarmerie officers.

Serbian police officers from the special anti-terrorist unit.

Mexico City task force.

Mexico City task force.

Venezuelan national police officers.

(Source).

THE V&A'S 'DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS' EXHIBITION

"From a Suffragette tea service to protest robots, this exhibition was the first to examine the powerful role of objects in movements for social change. It demonstrated how political activism drives a wealth of design ingenuity and collective creativity that defy standard definitions of art and design. Disobedient Objects focused on the period from the late 1970s to now, a time that has brought new technologies and political challenges. On display were arts of rebellion from around the world that illuminate the role of making in grassroots movements for social change: finely woven banners; defaced currency; changing designs for barricades and blockades; political video games; an inflatable general assembly to facilitate consensus decision-making; experimental activist-bicycles; and textiles bearing witness to political murders" - (V&A).

"A fascinating new exhibition celebrates the most unlikely protest objects. Yet these humble bits and bobs, have helped to win rights, change laws and even topple governments. As co-curator Catherine Flood says, "It is design taken out of the hands of designers." As such, it has a refreshingly frank power, a collection of tools made or redeployed for specific – and often desperate – ends" - (Oliver Wainwright).

"We wanted to show the collective power these domestic objects can have when grabbed and repurposed with political intent" - Gavin Grindon (co-curator).

I came across this exhibition when I was searching through the V&A collection for inspiration for my own project and work. It stood out to me because it wasn't anything I had considered before; that it isn't just the presence of humans in a protest environment which brings about social change, even the smallest thing, like a painted poster or a single image can change the mindset of the majority - such as the image of Aylan Kurdi which hugely influenced how Syrian refugees were portrayed in the media.

Unfortunately I was unable to view the exhibition in person, as it was shown earlier this year, however I have found images and articles about the work through research. Something which a number of people picked up on, and which I found particularly interesting was how poignant hand-crafted textiles were found to be in protest movements. Fashion and textiles have throughout time been used to forward particular shifts in society. Viewers found that the contrast of using traditional hand-crafted textiles

in a political environment especially profound. "Some exhibits employ the charm of something woven or crafted, with these, the labour and care taken in making them commands respect and disarms aggression" - (Rowan Moore). "The brightly appliquéd textiles produced by Chilean women living under the Pinochet regime are indicative of the kind of subterfuges required to enable dissent in some circumstances. Traditionally gentle folk arts are quietly subverted to depict scenes of horror: weeping mothers, chained hands, falling doves and the penetrating eyes of the secret police. The panels generated income and solidarity for the women in a period of scrutiny and oppression, but, crucially, they also provided an absorbing activity: “when their hands and eyes were focused on sewing, they felt safe enough to speak and share their lives”. Such textiles possess a careful beauty" - (Shahidha Bari).

Often it is these more traditional and crafted pieces which have proved most effective in a protest environment. "Overall one finds that new technology or over-thought gadgets lack the impact of the emotively hand-crafted street puppetry, silk-screen banners and Chilean “ariplleras” patchworks that have become popular worldwide. Mass media may spread the word, but in the streets authority will, on the whole, be better undermined by frivolity than technology" - (Florence Waters).